Baja California Sur, Mexico

Stretching from Guerrero Negro to Cabo San Lucas, Baja Sur offers some of the most arid and harsh terrain, but also some of the most inspiring.

1. Baja Sur & Guerrero Negro: There is an agricultural checkpoint here. When I gave up an orange to the officer he turned and dutifully chucked it about 30 yards out into the desert. We also had our car sprayed with who knows what, for a mandatory fee. Once through that situation the town of Guerrero Negro stretches out to the right. Known for its whale watching on Scammon’s Lagoon, it is the first big town you will have seen for some time. It is both refreshing and appalling. The clutter and exhaust can make one head for the road, which quickly becomes a painful decision, but the next stop is worth the drive.
2. San Ignacio (532 miles): This palm oasis seems like a dream after the hard drive behind you. Around a bend is a valley full of the greenest palm trees. Buried in those trees is the amazing little mission town of San Ignacio. A Jesuit mission built 1728 stands in its pristine glory for exploring and prayer. A small square served as fair grounds the night I rolled through with my family. We enjoyed games, music and food with the people of the San Ignacio area. Among my fondest memories of Mexico.
3. Santa Rosalia: This town crawls up a hill but teems with busy people moving about. At night it has the feel of a pirate town with small boats bobbing in the distance and the town lit all the way to the top of the hill. Home to a church built by Gustave Eiffel, of the French Tower, it also has gas, hotels and dining. A ferry to Guaymas on the Mexican mainland is also available from Santa Rosalia.
4. Mulege: Another gem. A river runs through Mulege offering a unique lush feel not too common in Baja. Another Spanish missionary city, founded in 1702, there is also a mission here built in 1754. Although not as spectacular as San Ignacio, it offers a glimpse into the original feel of the missions along the Baja Peninsula. Also known for a civilian uprising during the Mexican-American War that held US Marines at bay, it is sometimes known as Heroic Mulege. Caves with native art are also worth a look. They are all over the peninsula. Somewhere in Mulege is a taco stand on the beach that serves a mean fish taco.
5. Loreto: This fun little beach town sits on the Sea of Cortez and is known for its bountiful fishing. A boardwalk (malecon) is perfect for warm evening strolls. The beach is decent but on the Sea of Cortez waves are what surfers call “Ankle Slappers,” so not much in the way of surf. Loreto has an air of respectability to it with a cute little shopping district and some nice restaurants. Plan to stay here or pass through for lunch and shopping. On the drive out take in the amazing scenery around Puerto Escondido, just down the road from Loreto, because that’s it for another looooong stretch across the peninsula.
6. Ciudad Insurgentes/Constitucion: These towns suck. Based around desert farming and gas refueling, there is little to see except for a glimpse of post-apocalyptic America. Fuel up and hit the home stretch for La Paz.
7. La Paz: La Paz can be sensed by the increase in traffic around the city. Soon the road turns from barren and empty to lined with taco stands and businesses. Then La Paz comes into sight and it seems huge compared to the small towns along the Peninsula.  La Paz was founded by Aztec conqueror Hernan Cortez in 1535, as he pushed further in search of legendary cities of gold. Cortez moved on but explorer Sebastian Vizcaino resettled 40 years later. La Paz sits on the Bay of La Paz and stretches from the malecon back into the mainland quite some distance. It is a bigger town than it seems from the touristy bay front. It’s not necessarily a nice place, but after a long drive, you can get all the modern comforts and supplies you need and have a nice margarita too. We stayed on several occasions at the Hotel Pekin, run by a Chinese family. They also had a restaurant which served some excellent Chinese food, which was a pleasant break from carne asada and tortillas. There is also the famous La Pazlapa Bar for drinking and dancing. La Paz is also a major Eco-Tourism spot. The islands of the Sea of the Cortez contain many unique habitats, animals and plants found nowhere else, including a rattle-less rattlesnake. The islands and inlets, of which there are more than 900, have been called the poor man’s Galapagos for the evidence of island evolution. Many are protected as UNESCO World Heritage Sites. La Paz is also a travel hub with ferries to mainland Mexico available outside the city at the port of Pichilinque. It’s an exciting ride across the sea with all the cars and people, so be prepared.
8. Los Cabos/Todo Santos: From La Paz, Cabo San Lucas is only a few hours. The choice is whether you want to take the scenic West route along the Pacific Ocean/El Pescadero/Todos Santos or head straight for the action of Los Cabos.

BACK - - Next (Beware & Bring Lists)